![]() I have made sure that the switch on the back is set to X, though I have also tried it set to D and tried switching it after it didn't seem to detect as the other. I have switched which USB port the controller is plugged into. I have rebooted with the controller plugged in. I have run the provided software (for windows 10, 64 bit), but the readme does not list windows 10 as an OS that it was designed for and it's dated 2010. The gamepad has never worked immediately after being plugged in. Other times it's in the midst of flipping switches and settings. Sometimes this happens after waiting a while with it plugged in. Occasionally the gamepad gets detected properly and it works like it should. ![]() Most of the time, the controller registers as an HID Mouse and an HID Keyboard (though I gather that it's supposed to show up as a Gamepad F310 when using X-input or Dual Action gamepad when using D-input). Sometimes the device works, but very rarely and I have no idea what triggers it to work properly. Unless I was absolutely destitute though I would look at one of the third-party wired Xbox controllers over the F310, or something by 8BitDo if I could spend a little more than that but still didn't want to shell out as much as a first-party Microsoft controller costs.I have a Logitech 310 Gamepad and windows 10. Are you really going to make a warranty claim over a $15 gamepad? Probably not, by the time it breaks you have enough to either just buy another or buy something better, and that's what Logitech is counting on. At the price it sells for it's basically disposable. I wouldn't put much stock in the 3 year warranty, though. Even the third-party wired Xbox controllers by PowerA and PDP are more like $25-30. That's how you have to look at the F310: it's a "standard" shape and layout, compatible with basically all games, sold by a company you've heard of for usually under $20. Then for the F310 by making it Xinput compatible and using XBox-style buttons Logitech did the bare minimum necessary to keep it viable as the "bare minimum" PC gamepad. When it came out the Dual Action was a welcome product because it simply and shamelessly ripped off the PlayStation Dual Shock layout, whereas the world of PC gamepads in the 90's and 2000's before it was a lawless wasteland of weird shit. I will say that the Series controllers are probably their best iteration yet though.Īs long as you don't get so mad that you start flinging controllers across the room, you should be fine with either in terms of durability.Įh. The bumpers and/or d-pad on mine always seem to start registering double clicks and missclicks after some time, regardless of whether I've even been using them or not. They make really good controllers as long as you baby them, but I will say the 1 year warranty isn't really good enough. I have a bunch of Xbox controllers, including the Elite V2. ![]() You can actually register them to your Xbox account and view warranty information at any time on their website, including when it will expire. If purchased new, the controllers have 1 year warranty. Probably the latter.Īll Microsoft peripherals have a warranty though. Which means it will either break immediately, or last forever. I've never used the Logitceh F310, but looking at it screams "Mad Catz controller from the early 2000s" to me. ![]()
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